In the Mood

#3 from Indianapolis Monthly

At Sangiovese Ristorante, a new owner and a menu tune-up keep the romance alive.

by Jodi Wright

It’s no secret that Italian ranks among the most romantic of world cuisines, and Indy is fortunate to have as many offerings as there are occasions for a culinary gesture of love, whether it’s Mom and Dad’s night out, a pre-theater dinner, or a special celebration. But for a first date, Sangiovese Ristorante is the place to break the ice without going overboard on the romantic touches. In business for 10 years, the northside restaurant handily puts couples at ease over glasses of its namesake red wine or dishes like the warm, tangy goatcheese torta appetizer that is the perfect project for two. Despite sitting in the busy 82nd Street corridor, Sangiovese feels like a hideaway. (From the street you wouldn’t guess that the outdoor tables have a leafy view of White River.) Inside, there’s a baby grand where jazz performers often entertain. Couples can linger over cocktails at the sleek bar spanning the narrow front dining room or retire to quieter tables near the fireplace. The atmosphere is intimate and relaxed, with a clubby hum of conversation. Originally established by Gino Pizzi of Mangia and Ambrosia fame, Sangiovese was purchased by Chris Evans from the second owner, Kosta Protopapadakis, in May. In fact, it was Pizzi who suggested the purchase to Evans, who spent six years at Ambrosia as a bartender and manager. Evans has spruced up the interior with a fresh coat of paint and new carpeting, and he’s wisely edited the number of recipes. With the previous lineup—a long roster of about 40 appetizers, salads, and entrees—it would be difficult for any kitchen to prepare each item flawlessly. What distinguishes Sangiovese’s menu, even in its abbreviated form, is its variety of flavors. Typical marinara and Alfredo sauces are joined by unexpected combinations such as lump-meat crabcakes paired with rich saffron aioli, and gnocchi tossed with plump shrimp, pancetta, and artichokes. Some of the dishes still need a little tweaking. Less-than-ripe tomatoes defeat the purpose of the caprese salad, and under-seasoned risotto seems an unworthy side to the rack of lamb—but Evans is betting that a finale of mango, raspberry, and passion-fruit sorbet, enrobed in a thick whitechocolate shell, will earn him a second date. And because he promises that the kitchen will accommodate special requests for favorites that have been edited out of the menu, regulars might want to kiss the chef as well.